Narrow cobbled streets, uneven in places. Dark, stained buildings. A sense of history. I walked to the hilltop, gazed down on a feeble sun, and a drifting low mist. Bridges over the grey river. A high-walled, forbidding castle on my right, and the elegant soaring spires of the cathedral. Then suddenly – not a Crusader on horseback – but a skateboarder with red sneakers hurtling over the embankment.